tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59062968090687157952024-03-13T10:08:42.919+01:00Humber RestorationAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-32147897509301878412014-03-02T20:15:00.000+01:002014-03-02T20:15:21.461+01:00Right after leftOK, left rear quarter done. Had a bit of fun moving her to the other
side of the garage so that I can get to the other side more easily.
Did you know she's huge, and driving in the twilight with a fogged over
windshield and no brakes is not perse the wisest move? But certainly
fun :-)<br />
<br />
<br />
Right rear quarter: pretty much in the same shape as the left rear was. See below.<br />
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<br />
Tried
to remove the rear spring, but the front bolt won't come out of its
bush. Everything I could do was done, but all that happens is that the
cage is forced out. Well, something about Moses and mountains then:
disassembled the leaf spring in place, painted, and ready to refit.<br />
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Body
work is progressing here as well, running board (yes RAG, they truly
are wood!) repainted, new support made, etc. The welding is going to be
fun with all the horse hair on the other side of this thin sheet metal.<br />
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Timespan:
should finish this quarter in the next 6 weeks, save perhaps the wing
itself. The shrinker/stretcher I bought is certainly a great
improvement to hours and hours of hammering!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-17938233256290761832013-11-03T21:18:00.000+01:002013-11-03T21:18:34.763+01:00Left rear quarter completeGetting there...<br />
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And the 'finished' product: left rear quarter complete:</div>
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The spare wheel lid hasn't been on this car since before I got it :-)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-83866437406265945832013-07-29T09:21:00.003+02:002014-03-02T20:15:27.202+01:00Left rear quarterMy carpenter came over last weekend - either I didn't give him enough or too much beer...<br />
Anyway, these pieces hold the spare wheel lid and are thoroughly rotten. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPSvxG8VFbUup8shsUlhsDXjAXKaynSGfkQFvjs4HmfLPOd8dDIu20Al1UO5gv03PEBNFnDhh7Bo0-lcsI4dMK6zO95rB7IBcDKse-4x1DgZXYvB7tMriZRMxVzJt2hohUua3V4r8uNQ/s640/blogger-image-1267516309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPSvxG8VFbUup8shsUlhsDXjAXKaynSGfkQFvjs4HmfLPOd8dDIu20Al1UO5gv03PEBNFnDhh7Bo0-lcsI4dMK6zO95rB7IBcDKse-4x1DgZXYvB7tMriZRMxVzJt2hohUua3V4r8uNQ/s640/blogger-image-1267516309.jpg" /></a><br />
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While waiting for the carpenter to sleep off his hangover, I've replaced loads of rust with new sheet metal and a first bit of paint. Almost all sheet metal in the rear quarter, i.e. boot floor (three layers), inner wheel well, and the outside panel have been replaced.</div>
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Without wooden supports:<br />
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And with the wooden supports back in place:<br />
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Inside the trunk, showing the tools storage bay with new floor. While grinding off excess welds, this caused a bit of a fire - a spark must have somehow gotten to the inside of the rear seat upholstery and started causing a bit of smoke there. It took 10 liters of water to kill it....<br />
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The wing is progressing slowly, lots of fittings and adjustments but starting to look good!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-11251965896333452442013-07-12T10:18:00.005+02:002013-07-12T10:18:46.646+02:00New supplies and toysWork's still ong, but in the mean time I've picked up a few pieces of ash. Hope my faithful sidekick with much more feeling for woodworking than I have is back soon!<br />
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And some new toys (uhhh tools). The lowest plyers are specially designed for (un)folding the doorskin around the frame and work like magic! Shame I only bought them after already having done two doors. Guess I need more cars ;-)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3pmAlBmkhJSzoemFKyOBHn4BPbMmBBWUMGntiVFMDnXn35ae0AOL8TctsEAiOpxAgG0G0nf-Tuo3yUDtsyexlLyZxQSvMIDxwSB7whLngI851fJ6kWxUWVhX5d8bI84cvA17VvGhn3wA/s640/blogger-image-335686892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3pmAlBmkhJSzoemFKyOBHn4BPbMmBBWUMGntiVFMDnXn35ae0AOL8TctsEAiOpxAgG0G0nf-Tuo3yUDtsyexlLyZxQSvMIDxwSB7whLngI851fJ6kWxUWVhX5d8bI84cvA17VvGhn3wA/s640/blogger-image-335686892.jpg" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-81994694584459795572013-06-10T09:00:00.001+02:002013-06-10T09:00:03.227+02:00UKWhat a view!<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOY6gYSkO96A5cxQMr7_SdiToQP-t0zJaMTjISo-7Q19UAiNsK_M_W5wRtaYAGDOuu98i0cfG-qVI3fQmfeCnzZPLTVUv-Xa-hQ1y7_CLrtoC0cfqRhv0HTOG__a5ImQBHPTRXBLUarag/s640/blogger-image--351370042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOY6gYSkO96A5cxQMr7_SdiToQP-t0zJaMTjISo-7Q19UAiNsK_M_W5wRtaYAGDOuu98i0cfG-qVI3fQmfeCnzZPLTVUv-Xa-hQ1y7_CLrtoC0cfqRhv0HTOG__a5ImQBHPTRXBLUarag/s640/blogger-image--351370042.jpg"></a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-7916267758374886192013-06-03T21:39:00.002+02:002013-06-06T13:37:43.388+02:00Left rear fender Mk3The inner fender now mostly done, it's time to tackle the fender/wing itself. Most people would consider this a lost cause, and rightly so... It's pretty horrific:<br />
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Plan of attack: first make a new mounting plate. Now that the inner fender is repaired, this can be bolted onto the car and in that way, provide the exact shape the fender should follow. After that, I'll repair the fender bit by bit. The toughest bit seems to me to be the curved edge at the bottom of the wing. <br />
The front wings have a wire edge, the rear wings both have a more simple curved edge. I wonder which is authentic...<br />
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I can't help doing several things at the same time. I've already been working on removing the *bleep* window winder...<br />
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to be able to remove the door card to get at this:<br />
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The rod connecting the door to the pillar has been bent out of the way for ages, and the spring loaded mechanism behind it apparently jammed. I'll get to it, just give me time!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-54271877103351118152013-04-30T19:15:00.001+02:002013-04-30T19:15:27.535+02:00Register statusFor some specific Marks I've been trying to keep a detailed record of the extant cars. Current number of cars that I know or believe to still be around:<br />
<br />Humber Pullman Mark II: 8<br />
Humber Pullman Mark III: 16<br />
Humber Pullman Mark IV: 5<br />
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Humber Super Snipe Mark II: 21<br />
Humber Super Snipe Mark III: 28<br />
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If you have a Humber I'd like to hear about it! Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-26818928109483556152013-04-30T18:13:00.001+02:002013-06-06T13:39:58.350+02:00Humber Pullman Mk IIII've been demotivated slightly by the state of the trunk section of the Super Snipe. After several days of hammering away, the fit of the two boot lids is relatively ok, but now I need to start fabricating new pieces for which I have no pattern.<br />
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Consequence: time to think things over a bit (I need quite a bit of that :-)) and to tackle a job I've been postponing for two years now: the left inner fender of my Mk III Pullman. <br />
The Mark III Pullman is the first Humber I purchased, three or four years ago. The front 50% of this car has had the vast majority of work done. The engine runs smoothly with new piston rings, the body work has been almost completely done, chassis painted, brake parts replaced, etc. By far the biggest job was the left front wing, which I sent out for repairs. Considering that single wing alone cost me as much to have repaired as the whole car, and considering even more so that I'm so stubborn that I want to do everything myself, I did the other wing myself. Now the rear 50%. The two wings are clearly the largest job, for the rest it's only replacing the wooden frame around the boot lid. All in all, I estimate that within 9 months I can have the car back on the road - if only I didn't also spend time on the other cars.<br />
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Why did I postpone this job so long? Basically because I did not have access to the inside of this section. I don't want to remove all the upholstery if I can avoid it. Turns out that I can avoid it quite easily, no major problems in the end:<br />
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Now to continue along the wheel well with the smaller repair pieces.<br />
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The fender itself is in quite poor shape. I need to replace most of the foldover, then place a new attachment strip on the inside of that, and also repair the filler well - that's the easy part.<br />
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On the right the Pullman fender, on the left the Super Snipe fender. These have all really suffered over the years...</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-76027496803376988582013-04-08T21:12:00.001+02:002013-06-06T13:39:45.763+02:00Trunk area - strippingSpent two or three days stripping the rear section. Turns out there really is nothing either original or properly aligned. The lower horizontal cross section is banged up and missing large sections. I guess the good news is that I can work from scratch, the bad news is I haven't got a clue how to start... It'll have to start with the outside of the cross section so that the spare wheel cover will fit properly again, then the inside box section. Then work from there - sounds simple, ehh?<br />
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Came across something nice on EBay as well:</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-83134993184724017632013-04-05T20:11:00.001+02:002013-06-06T13:39:25.334+02:00Prep workStripping the rear of upholstery, panels, and woodwork (warned you this blog could be boring and tedious...).<br />
The misalignment on the spare wheel cover is due to a dent lower left section of the body work. No surprise, as this is a brazed on piece of junk.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrEaivSb8MV0Wx4yMbw0zRt4MIx35Rd7jPP9LH5filMiEw6gErOeiRdPAp2csqx8c7TwO5h_0CvGxxk2bxItIj0639eZyx-qMP6j7UU1Fdc591ZVkY4q5U8N7rZsGXYF7DMsgHC09Bbk/s640/blogger-image-1025011151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrEaivSb8MV0Wx4yMbw0zRt4MIx35Rd7jPP9LH5filMiEw6gErOeiRdPAp2csqx8c7TwO5h_0CvGxxk2bxItIj0639eZyx-qMP6j7UU1Fdc591ZVkY4q5U8N7rZsGXYF7DMsgHC09Bbk/s640/blogger-image-1025011151.jpg" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-70847012280924995152013-04-03T21:11:00.000+02:002013-04-04T21:16:52.127+02:00Left rear door, part 3Turns out that with a few hours of very careful hammering, I was able to shrink the weld and get a reasonably well line-out door. Part of the trick was to remove all the excess weld on the inside of the panel. See below<br />
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The average deviation is less than 1 mm, and when I get a better flat panel hammer I'll continue to remove some of the bumps. But bottom line: it's going in the right direction without a new repair piece :-)<br />
So what is the next project area? The basic plan is to refabricate the rear-most box area, it is completely rotten and in addition, it covers the lower rear outside panel (the part with the dents). To knock the dents out, you need to cut out the box section completely. Luckily I have Mrs Erlands' restoration log, which covers the exact same procedure. The trunk:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-QkchrHgJO1i-k5comoqqsX5SOLdqsSCyzlQLVLeVXANJI8xA5iM0giU2CpRSDt8momgdyK8_AYbgRNqz6pPtAA64VnGG6PtlVluyve7kURBRrfZ0MbdYlKFbolmnEDrp9xjlAECJ1o/s640/blogger-image--1195928071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-QkchrHgJO1i-k5comoqqsX5SOLdqsSCyzlQLVLeVXANJI8xA5iM0giU2CpRSDt8momgdyK8_AYbgRNqz6pPtAA64VnGG6PtlVluyve7kURBRrfZ0MbdYlKFbolmnEDrp9xjlAECJ1o/s640/blogger-image--1195928071.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SE8DI-3fiAnV16wiRxQSHNepG0ZNxW4bMqRvGUoHZ2AObEbFtYDFig-KqhH7Iam_9Y7zF8LXsoV30N-kE4aVIIMVz650Ayjj4woogAIvZYh7cgZwIb5OmlkNtbEX4_fD5CGb7v5qrCM/s640/blogger-image-2126646231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SE8DI-3fiAnV16wiRxQSHNepG0ZNxW4bMqRvGUoHZ2AObEbFtYDFig-KqhH7Iam_9Y7zF8LXsoV30N-kE4aVIIMVz650Ayjj4woogAIvZYh7cgZwIb5OmlkNtbEX4_fD5CGb7v5qrCM/s640/blogger-image-2126646231.jpg" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbT46asHo5-rZYk_FEtjE7I_h5OyR1_kFlopXAG0pHOUZTLPHTyhW5Za5uL3NdzvdGVp2xL9Xh7KOd52LXfJQWjcfltBmDmbq2YmMRs6WvrYW1PPhHPwemuLzEg_LnQFpO8HVKVfbaa4/s640/blogger-image--631293476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbT46asHo5-rZYk_FEtjE7I_h5OyR1_kFlopXAG0pHOUZTLPHTyhW5Za5uL3NdzvdGVp2xL9Xh7KOd52LXfJQWjcfltBmDmbq2YmMRs6WvrYW1PPhHPwemuLzEg_LnQFpO8HVKVfbaa4/s640/blogger-image--631293476.jpg" /></a><br />
A few repair pieces and a severely dented rear section.<br />
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You're not supposed to have external lighting here. But the section looks much easier to attack now that all the junk and cardboard panels are gone.<br />
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Left rear corner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvrLpo0f8bsRuKNQ7YyBEb3zdK5emjdxaTNGpQDEVqc40NoKzfbRZxVhuYEXq9K02xEa9xcTIYmRs1KC6e_ZlkI79s0OmzeOazU8JOsbf_G6zmBOQ0EryYC6_oB5Yx5rlgmB1xxuHgz8/s640/blogger-image--241815349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvrLpo0f8bsRuKNQ7YyBEb3zdK5emjdxaTNGpQDEVqc40NoKzfbRZxVhuYEXq9K02xEa9xcTIYmRs1KC6e_ZlkI79s0OmzeOazU8JOsbf_G6zmBOQ0EryYC6_oB5Yx5rlgmB1xxuHgz8/s640/blogger-image--241815349.jpg" /></a></div>
And from below.<br />
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Oops, spare wheel cover doesn't quite line up. Fitting the top section of the trunk lid shows it is most likely the spare wheel cover that's out of line, since the top part fits properly. I'll need to spend some time measuring to confirm this.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-46030209058566068602013-04-02T20:43:00.002+02:002013-04-04T21:16:52.126+02:00Left rear doorI guess it should have been expected, but I didn't manage to weld the skin back together without it buckling more than I consider acceptable. Two options: try to hammer it out, at the risk that I don't do it well enough and cause more stretching than shrinking; or to cut the repair piece (which is in far worse shape than the original part of the skin) and some of the original out and make my own. The second option is the better one...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCzkTp-AsOrx2CPBLhWKff6mBYo-TyRcPCLb6E0-pC1NQXv3ZGYRR05xwrp1cZLBWIaY7aDXQzdT-IaVhsWa1Z4iCgO3j42-lUFF4vBsi3dDpeglKHN3hBeP624qK1sJut-ZZZKyrHaQ/s640/blogger-image-1682722800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCzkTp-AsOrx2CPBLhWKff6mBYo-TyRcPCLb6E0-pC1NQXv3ZGYRR05xwrp1cZLBWIaY7aDXQzdT-IaVhsWa1Z4iCgO3j42-lUFF4vBsi3dDpeglKHN3hBeP624qK1sJut-ZZZKyrHaQ/s320/blogger-image-1682722800.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-42101073177968784212013-03-31T22:24:00.001+02:002013-04-04T21:16:52.124+02:00Left rear doorSeemed as if I only needed to replace the lower 10 cm of the inner frame, as a new section of skin had already been welded in. And for a change, it looked quite well done. Not. The smallest application of heat caused buckling with a bump up to half a cm. I tried <a href="http://www.frost-auto.nl/?cursus-plaatbewerking,69" target="_blank">Jeroen</a>'s newly taught skills on it, but in the end I cut through the old weld because there wasn't enough room for any of my anvils on the sides, pulled the two pieces together, and have started tacking them together. Almost two mm's were cut out - probably way too much for my new shrinking skills to handle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyq01-rUBLaFHJuKcpqnCqL36MLAgJFHFD3vC7ynaZQezn7URTShUfqurvTXNoYphEdyS0UWRH9MszL2o8UY1_bNWcxrJ6CPCnLFPUn7BZ9iiyOhOLnJMm89nAcn036f57YoB7vL60fs/s1600/IMG_9550%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyq01-rUBLaFHJuKcpqnCqL36MLAgJFHFD3vC7ynaZQezn7URTShUfqurvTXNoYphEdyS0UWRH9MszL2o8UY1_bNWcxrJ6CPCnLFPUn7BZ9iiyOhOLnJMm89nAcn036f57YoB7vL60fs/s320/IMG_9550%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of the clamps already removed. NB door is upside down :-)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqBCFIGN2NojUD8Dyyl404cy-aoJLPYSmk1EY-g79Hj62T_pd4000wgl02JzmawqSAKd2xfV65ATwpDcJuqHYgDJm8taFySstYJ9AF_k903sTsLVph1iZzj9Hqsj6qnU0-vepBlgxQLQ/s1600/IMG_9552%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqBCFIGN2NojUD8Dyyl404cy-aoJLPYSmk1EY-g79Hj62T_pd4000wgl02JzmawqSAKd2xfV65ATwpDcJuqHYgDJm8taFySstYJ9AF_k903sTsLVph1iZzj9Hqsj6qnU0-vepBlgxQLQ/s320/IMG_9552%5B1%5D.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(relatively) flat. Believe me.</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-49297454701283788172013-03-30T15:30:00.002+01:002013-03-31T22:02:12.002+02:00First stepsPlan: Body work, front to back. Missing metal to be replaced, as close to original as I can get it. Sounds simple, ehh?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOZOtDPjGP_9P9ZHQRprKN_tLPN1XQF8rTrL6gZpWuFuGO83rPZqx2YkVHOpUYrTDvCBNeHvZWzTJSloSwh1Qwg_QzdsGgGj-M1vCyj7y5VrdyQk379IDHGtbitS_Awtjocx0mc0vo7QM/s1600/IMG_9457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOZOtDPjGP_9P9ZHQRprKN_tLPN1XQF8rTrL6gZpWuFuGO83rPZqx2YkVHOpUYrTDvCBNeHvZWzTJSloSwh1Qwg_QzdsGgGj-M1vCyj7y5VrdyQk379IDHGtbitS_Awtjocx0mc0vo7QM/s320/IMG_9457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the leading edge of the body, i.e. the drivers left foot. The rot is extensive because it's covered by the wing and the running board. <br />
As I'm writing this some months after the work has been done: 'Work in progress':<br />
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The body is similar all around.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The left rear wing was almost completely detached from the car - three layers have rusted away: wing flange, outside body, and inner wheel well. This will be an interesting part to fix...</td></tr>
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The left front door isn't too nice either. The frame has had a new part brazed onto it, meaning rot has simply continued on the skin. Bottom line: lowest 5/10 cm of both skin and frame must be and have been replaced.<br />
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And the rebuilt door has been fitted. Progress so far: both front wings, bonnet, radiator cowling, left inner and outer doorsill, both left doors. All parts are basically ready for final sanding before a layer of primer can be sprayed on.<br />
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By the way, the door hinges are really really really tough to remove. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-10297849785452944722013-03-30T14:54:00.000+01:002013-03-31T22:02:33.984+02:00PurposeSo why this blog? Mostly because I hope it'll be an easy way of keeping some sort of restoration log, even though I've been at it for 5 months already. And not in the least, because I hope to get in touch with as many other Humber owners as possible. <br />
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So, pictures, and many of them:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She's home - and I'm not...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did you know the Super Snipe is by far the smallest of the three Humbers I now have? Not compared to the FIAT 500 however!</td></tr>
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Most of the upholstery is salvageable, except for the headlining and the front carpets.</div>
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Don't let looks deceive you - this car has been 'museum prepared'. In other words, made to look relatively nice through the use of loads of filler and paint. The lowest 10 cm of the body have very extensive rust damage.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16313299596987733920noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5906296809068715795.post-22738033628350596622013-03-29T18:38:00.001+01:002013-03-30T14:35:20.247+01:00Aalholm Auction7 July 2012: Email from a fellow Humber addict: "Hi Flip, Check this out. It's only the second 1939 Humber Super Snipe I have ever come across.... If it was in England, it would certainly be joining my collection". In other words: grab it while you can!<br />
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Between 7/7 and 12/8: many a night spent wide awake. The 1939 Humber Super Snipe is the perfect car to join my collection: the early version of the 4086cc side-valve engine that runs through the war until 1953, on the short wheel base, cross braced, chassis of the 1938 Snipe. In saloon form. There are also sports saloons, which are just ever so slightly less beautiful. The only left hand drive, and one of only two known surviving 'early 1939' saloons (I'll post details about the differences later, I'm sure). This is an opportunity so rare, the thought of someone else running off with it leaves me with a stomach ache...<br />
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14 August 2012: At the RM Auction in Aalholm, Denmark, a 1939 Humber Super Snipe is auctioned. A sorry wreck, the state she's in brings tears to my eyes, but a must have :-). Against several other bidders, in between million kroner Ferrari's, Bugatti's and a Maybach Zeppelin, and at slightly less than all the money I decided I was willing to spend, I hear "All said, all done, sold! To Lord Humber!".<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aalholm auction: 1939 Humber Super Snipe, and great weather as well!</td></tr>
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