For some specific Marks I've been trying to keep a detailed record of the extant cars. Current number of cars that I know or believe to still be around:
Humber Pullman Mark II: 8
Humber Pullman Mark III: 16
Humber Pullman Mark IV: 5
Humber Super Snipe Mark II: 21
Humber Super Snipe Mark III: 28
If you have a Humber I'd like to hear about it!
Tuesday 30 April 2013
Humber Pullman Mk III
I've been demotivated slightly by the state of the trunk section of the Super Snipe. After several days of hammering away, the fit of the two boot lids is relatively ok, but now I need to start fabricating new pieces for which I have no pattern.
Consequence: time to think things over a bit (I need quite a bit of that :-)) and to tackle a job I've been postponing for two years now: the left inner fender of my Mk III Pullman.
The Mark III Pullman is the first Humber I purchased, three or four years ago. The front 50% of this car has had the vast majority of work done. The engine runs smoothly with new piston rings, the body work has been almost completely done, chassis painted, brake parts replaced, etc. By far the biggest job was the left front wing, which I sent out for repairs. Considering that single wing alone cost me as much to have repaired as the whole car, and considering even more so that I'm so stubborn that I want to do everything myself, I did the other wing myself. Now the rear 50%. The two wings are clearly the largest job, for the rest it's only replacing the wooden frame around the boot lid. All in all, I estimate that within 9 months I can have the car back on the road - if only I didn't also spend time on the other cars.
Why did I postpone this job so long? Basically because I did not have access to the inside of this section. I don't want to remove all the upholstery if I can avoid it. Turns out that I can avoid it quite easily, no major problems in the end:
Now to continue along the wheel well with the smaller repair pieces.
The fender itself is in quite poor shape. I need to replace most of the foldover, then place a new attachment strip on the inside of that, and also repair the filler well - that's the easy part.
Consequence: time to think things over a bit (I need quite a bit of that :-)) and to tackle a job I've been postponing for two years now: the left inner fender of my Mk III Pullman.
The Mark III Pullman is the first Humber I purchased, three or four years ago. The front 50% of this car has had the vast majority of work done. The engine runs smoothly with new piston rings, the body work has been almost completely done, chassis painted, brake parts replaced, etc. By far the biggest job was the left front wing, which I sent out for repairs. Considering that single wing alone cost me as much to have repaired as the whole car, and considering even more so that I'm so stubborn that I want to do everything myself, I did the other wing myself. Now the rear 50%. The two wings are clearly the largest job, for the rest it's only replacing the wooden frame around the boot lid. All in all, I estimate that within 9 months I can have the car back on the road - if only I didn't also spend time on the other cars.
Why did I postpone this job so long? Basically because I did not have access to the inside of this section. I don't want to remove all the upholstery if I can avoid it. Turns out that I can avoid it quite easily, no major problems in the end:
Now to continue along the wheel well with the smaller repair pieces.
The fender itself is in quite poor shape. I need to replace most of the foldover, then place a new attachment strip on the inside of that, and also repair the filler well - that's the easy part.
On the right the Pullman fender, on the left the Super Snipe fender. These have all really suffered over the years...
Monday 8 April 2013
Trunk area - stripping
Spent two or three days stripping the rear section. Turns out there really is nothing either original or properly aligned. The lower horizontal cross section is banged up and missing large sections. I guess the good news is that I can work from scratch, the bad news is I haven't got a clue how to start... It'll have to start with the outside of the cross section so that the spare wheel cover will fit properly again, then the inside box section. Then work from there - sounds simple, ehh?
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Came across something nice on EBay as well:
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Friday 5 April 2013
Prep work
Stripping the rear of upholstery, panels, and woodwork (warned you this blog could be boring and tedious...).
The misalignment on the spare wheel cover is due to a dent lower left section of the body work. No surprise, as this is a brazed on piece of junk.
The misalignment on the spare wheel cover is due to a dent lower left section of the body work. No surprise, as this is a brazed on piece of junk.
Wednesday 3 April 2013
Left rear door, part 3
Turns out that with a few hours of very careful hammering, I was able to shrink the weld and get a reasonably well line-out door. Part of the trick was to remove all the excess weld on the inside of the panel. See below
The average deviation is less than 1 mm, and when I get a better flat panel hammer I'll continue to remove some of the bumps. But bottom line: it's going in the right direction without a new repair piece :-)
So what is the next project area? The basic plan is to refabricate the rear-most box area, it is completely rotten and in addition, it covers the lower rear outside panel (the part with the dents). To knock the dents out, you need to cut out the box section completely. Luckily I have Mrs Erlands' restoration log, which covers the exact same procedure. The trunk:
A few repair pieces and a severely dented rear section.
You're not supposed to have external lighting here. But the section looks much easier to attack now that all the junk and cardboard panels are gone.
Left rear corner.
And from below.
Oops, spare wheel cover doesn't quite line up. Fitting the top section of the trunk lid shows it is most likely the spare wheel cover that's out of line, since the top part fits properly. I'll need to spend some time measuring to confirm this.
The average deviation is less than 1 mm, and when I get a better flat panel hammer I'll continue to remove some of the bumps. But bottom line: it's going in the right direction without a new repair piece :-)
So what is the next project area? The basic plan is to refabricate the rear-most box area, it is completely rotten and in addition, it covers the lower rear outside panel (the part with the dents). To knock the dents out, you need to cut out the box section completely. Luckily I have Mrs Erlands' restoration log, which covers the exact same procedure. The trunk:
A few repair pieces and a severely dented rear section.
Tuesday 2 April 2013
Left rear door
I guess it should have been expected, but I didn't manage to weld the skin back together without it buckling more than I consider acceptable. Two options: try to hammer it out, at the risk that I don't do it well enough and cause more stretching than shrinking; or to cut the repair piece (which is in far worse shape than the original part of the skin) and some of the original out and make my own. The second option is the better one...
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